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Mission to Andros: Wine, cheese and lemons, the ‘golden’ products shaping the island’s future

By staffJuly 14, 20265 Mins Read
Mission to Andros: Wine, cheese and lemons, the ‘golden’ products shaping the island’s future
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Andros, the second largest island in the Cyclades after Naxos, has a long maritime tradition. For many decades, the island’s economy has relied on men who loved the sea and travelled to the ends of the earth.

Those who stayed behind, together with the island’s women, worked in livestock farming and cultivated the land. The Andros lemon is one of the most emblematic products of the fertile Livadia valley.

From the 17th century until the mid-20th, large quantities were exported throughout the Mediterranean, Central Europe and Russia. Every year, a Lemon Festival is held in the town of Andros.

“We celebrate the fragrant lemon of Andros, which is renowned. Many women and local associations come with their own homemade products,” Laskaró Stefanou, appointed cultural councillor of the Municipality of Andros. (source in Greek), told Euronews.

“The lemon is the gold of Andros. There were years when people lived off lemons; now that is no longer the case. But we want to preserve our tradition, which is why we come every year,” said farmer and cook Charikleia Daniolou.

Production may have fallen, but the lemon still makes the locals proud and continues to charm visitors with its flavour and aroma.

“The lemons of Andros used to be famous. Production was high and they reached as far as the Black Sea. They left from here on boats. Today production is much smaller, but it remains an important product for our area. We make lemonades, spoon sweets and lemon blossom, which is very delicious and unique.” says Despina Petta, president of the Mainites cultural association.

Schist soils, meltemi winds and sea spray create the ideal microclimate for producing good wine. In recent years, new, modern wineries have revived Andros’s vineyards and put the island on the wine tourism map.

The “Kourtesis” vineyard (source in Greek) is laid out on stone-built terraces, known as “aimasies”, at an altitude of 100 metres above the sea. It is located in the Ypsilo area near the town. It has a semi-underground winery and offers guided tours and tastings.

Vasso Chaviaraki is an oenologist originally from Andros. Although she lived in Athens, her love for the island and an attractive professional offer brought her back.

“We produce organic wines and olive oil and our aim is to make the wine of Andros known to the tourists who come here. We organise wine tastings. On the island, traditionally, households make their own wine and tsipouro. Our goal is to become known worldwide and for people to come here to taste our mavrotragano and potamisi wines, produced at a more professional level,” shared oenologist Vasso Chaviaraki.

Troy Porter and his wife live in Texas. They are very fond of the island, visit it every summer and promote it through their posts on social media.

Many of their friends who live in the United States also want to travel to Andros.

“It’s very relaxing and peaceful here. It’s quiet and people are kind. Two years ago we bought a house. We’ve been coming to Andros for the past five years. Everyone has positive energy and treats us as if we were part of their family. We love the atmosphere. It’s quiet. I think that’s the key word: tranquillity,” says Troy Porter.

In the Korthi area you’ll find the “Krevasara” dairy (source in Greek), run by the Asouti family. Since 2009 it has been producing Volaki, the traditional cheese of Andros, ladotyri and krasotyri, petrotí, a fresh cheese, and bourniá cheese.

After graduating from the Dairy School of Ioannina, Nikos Asoutis returned to the island and set up the unit. Every day, around 500 kilos of milk pass through his hands, collected from his own cows and from the animals of another five cattle farmers on the island.

“It has a distinctive flavour; it’s made purely from cow’s milk, pasteurised. Most of it is produced on the island, where the animals roam free. Besides the local market, you can find it in Athens, Thessaloniki and generally across Greece,” said cheesemaker Nikos Asoutis.

Of course, island-based entrepreneurship faces difficulties and challenges. Transport costs for products are high, while workers are hard to find.

“I came a few years ago from Athens, in an effort to help Nikos Asoutis, who needed extra hands. Because this has now become a very big problem. Life in the countryside is very nice, it’s lovely to say that we left Athens and came here, but there are many problems. There are no hands, there is no workforce to help any kind of business,” says assistant cheesemaker Maria Doli.

Beyond its beautiful beaches and crystal-clear waters, the island offers visitors everything they need to relax and experience authentic Aegean hospitality, which will soon bring them back to the island. The products the land yields are an inseparable part of the travel experience.

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