Published on •Updated
A few years ago it seemed you had to whisper if you chose to drink alcohol-free wine.
Now the industry has been forced into changing its habits and production as consumers are increasingly seeking alternatives to alcohol.
At the Wine Paris trade show this week, dozens of bottles of alcohol-free reds, whites, rosés and sparkling varieties have been ready on ice.
Once covered in a corner, the fast-growing no- and low-alcohol sector, now takes pride of place with producers from across Europe and beyond showcasing their latest offerings. And the choice of tipple is now plentiful, with a wide variety of bouquets.
Industry leaders say demand is rising as consumers are more health-conscious and mindful of alcohol’s harmful effects.
Katja Bernegger, is founder and CEO of Austria’s Zeronimo Wine: “If you are in society and you have no chance to drink for whatever reason…at the moment, you are standing there with your orange juice or coke. You are out of it,” said Bernegger.
“You have to explain why you do not drink. You don’t want to cheer with that. It’s also not a food pairing. It doesn’t work. It’s too sweet. So you are simply having just half of the fun in life. And that’s the reason why we need some sophisticated non-alcoholic options.”
In France, as in many European countries, there’s been a dramatic drop in the numbers of people who drink wines and spirits over recent years. Many adults no longer drink wine with most meals, and younger generations tend to drink less or no alcohol at all, when compared to their parents.
“It’s a growing market and I would say it’s not a trend. It’s here to stay as people are more mindful of their body, people are more watching about the consequences of alcohol,” said Bernegger. “If you drink today, you probably have a headache tomorrow, and they don’t want it because you need to function, you have kids, you have a job. So yeah, it’s a performance society, so more and more mindfulness is becoming an issue.”
But not everyone is convinced that less is more. Some wine merchants alcohol-free beverages takes away an essential element: flavour.
“It’s often a somewhat frustrating experience because you feel like you’re facing a lack of taste, aroma, and structure,” said Guy Tabourin, a wine merchant from Luxembourg. “Alcohol in a wine, in fact, carries the wine, and when you remove what carries the wine, you’re essentially killing the wine.”
Even so, retailers see opportunity for customers who want to socialise without drinking.
“People are convinced that you can’t have fun if you don’t drink alcohol in France. The proof is that we’re doing just fine and keeping our spirits up without a drop of alcohol,” said Justine Bobin, who owns a delicatessen. “Besides, it offers an alternative for everyone and brings people together. It’s more of a product for inclusion, I think, for people who don’t drink alcohol, and that’s great.”
With slogans like “No Alcohol, No Regrets”, the message from the show floor is clear, alcohol-free wine is moving from niche curiosity to mainstream choice.
Video editor • Yolaine De Kerchove Dexaerde