Japanese tariffs on multiple British cheeses remain obstructively high, at 25, 14, and 18.6 percent. This is because they will be lowered over 15 years, following the trade deal coming into effect at the start of 2021.
“When combined with the fact that we typically export the more premium — and therefore expensive — cheeses to Japan, the impact is even higher,” said Hyde. “All this means that British cheeses will feel relatively expensive to Japanese consumers compared to similar products they’re shopping for.”
Luxury cheeses
British cheese is a luxury good in Japan. Yet, even Fortnum & Mason doesn’t display its pots of Stilton and other British cheese alongside the tea, scones, clotted cream, jam, preserves and biscuits on its stand in the bustling food hall of Japan’s legendary Mitsukoshi department store.
Hidden away on the store’s third basement level at the “Cheese on the Table” stall, you can find Red Cheddar (¥972, £4.78), Stilton (¥1,080, £5.31), and Clotted cream (¥2,376, £11.70) alongside other European varieties.
For ordinary Japanese people, “the image of the production of the cheese is France, Italy, not Britain,” said a Japanese official, noting the U.K.’s best-known export is Scotch whisky. “In this sense, I think the promotion for this British cheese would be necessary.”
“There’s ambition among U.K. food and drink manufacturers to increase their trading with markets outside the EU, like Japan,” said Hyde. “We want that ambition to be met with action from government, by doing more to promote U.K. food and drink abroad, alongside gaining tariff reductions to these nations.”